Monday, April 26, 2010

Firewater

At the end of a relentless and busy week it’s nice to be able to look back at the long hours, the lack of sleep and the stress and realize that when you start out with a night of food, friends, a little repose and a lot of Aguardiente, things aren’t quite so bad.

We met at the house of our friends Danielle and Federico, the former a mutual co-worker and the latter her boyfriend, a chef and molecular biology student who we just don’t see enough of anymore. Although they currently live in Hartford, Federico is originally from the sprawling city of Medellín. Nestled in the Aburrá valley along the Andes range in Colombia, Medellín is known as the City of the Eternal Spring.

Upon arriving, we were greeted with a Colombian staple, a shot of Aguardiente.

As he poured the clear liquid into four small glasses, Federico explained that in Colombia, drinking Aguardiente, or firewater, is a way of life. A smooth, warming liqueur made from sugar cane and flavored with anise, Aguardiente is shared during meals, on long bus rides and basically whenever the mood strikes. Most importantly, the bottle is rarely left unfinished.

After a shot or two to fuel our appetites, we ventured out to Hartford’s South End to Parrilla y Sabores. A small and austere Colombian restaurant located on Franklin Avenue, not even Google knows about this place.

While Freddie ordered a round of Aguilas, a light yet full-bodied Colombian beer, I poured over the extensive menu and struggled to make up my mind. There was so much to choose from I didn’t even know where to start.

Both Danielle and Freddie selected their usual Parrilla order, the ceviche of calamari, shrimp, scallop and white fish for her, and the bandeja paisa for him. Pork medallions in a spiced fruit sauce sounded too good to pass up for me, and Adam, in a show of good faith, opted for something he had definitely never had before, beef tongue.

Our ambassador, Freddie, translated our orders and threw in a couple more shots of Aguradiente for good measure.

Along with Aguardiente, Colombians love meat, and they certainly don’t mess around when it comes to portions size either. Freddie’s meal won for most imposing dish since it involved so much food that a single plate could not contain it. A popular Colombian mixed platter, the bandeja paisa included rice, beans, fresh avocado, a fried egg, arepas (thick Colombian-style tortillas), fried plantains, chorizo and chicharrón (a row of crispy fried pork belly that was so good it should either be made illegal or sold by the pound).

Danielle’s ceviche won for healthiest dish, with vibrant citrus and generous cilantro, but the sheer size of it really prevents me from calling this dish light.


The beef tongue definitely won most tender. Slow-cooked with onions, potatoes, parsley and bay leaf, I have to admit that Adam and I might be developing an obsession with organ meats.

Colombian cuisine frequently makes use of the many tropical fruits of the region, such as in blended fruit smoothies or in savory dishes. The pork medallions, served in a sweet pineapple and raisin sauce spiced with clove, wins for the most dessert-like dish still containing meat.


With our leftovers packed up for lunch the next day, we decided to round out the evening with a little more Aguardiente back at the house.

A few days later, once the busy workweek had started, an unexpected thing occurred; I got a craving for Aguardiente. If this week is anything like last week, I may have to sneak back to that little hole-in-the-wall for some beef tongue and firewater, just to take the edge off.

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